Text: Ekaterina Krutova

Conveniently located between Moscow and St. Petersburg, the region attracts residents of both capitals who can enjoy a fabulous weekend getaway there.

But Tver and other towns in the region can also offer you longer staysin theircozy hotels and historic manors, with plenty of restaurants around. You won’t be bored!

Tver in full view

Not everyone will risk going up several hundred meters into the winter air, but those brave enough are sure to have a truly outstanding experience. Tver is in full view from here, spread out before your eyes.

Tver’s festive trident

It gets dark early in winter, and at five o’clock the city is all in lights.Along with city residents, you can admire the old town’s illumination on Sovetskaya, Volnyi Novgorod and Novotorzhskaya Streets.These are the streets that radiate out in three rays from Sovetskaya Square, forming the famous “festive trident”–the basis of Tver’s city planning. St. Petersburg has something similar, but you won’t find anything like it anywhere else in Russia. The construction of Tver began,toordinary plans, during the earliest days of the reign of Catherine the Great, but a terrible fire of May 12, 1763 destroyed 852 houses. The Empress was informed of the tragedy, and the restoration of the city became an affair of state importance. The so-called “unified facade” is characteristic for the Northern capital, when buildings are constructed next to each other, without gaps between them. It is Tver’s signature architecture.

Preobrazhensky Church

Make sure to visit the village of Krasnoye in the Staritsky Region. This is one of the rarest Gothic Revival structures of the 18th century, and is built of brick using white Staritsky stone. Two centuries ago, the richest landowners of Staritsky were the Poltoratskys.The founder of the dynasty Mark Poltoratsky was Catherine the Great’s favourite singer, and she bestowed landin Tver Province upon him.Mark Poltoratsky’s wife, Agathocles, ran the house.She gave her husband a gift by building an exact copy of a church erected in St. Petersburg in 1770 at the place where, as legend has it, Catherine learned about the victory of the Russian Fleet at the Battle of Chesma.The cathedral’s amazing acoustics still astonish today.

Grishkino Park 

Get back to enjoying nature in the recreational park in the village of Bolshoye Grishkino, in the Kalininsky district.You can choosefrom skiing runs of various levels of difficulty, skate at an open-air rink, or “fly” from a hill while snow tubing.Learn to ride a snowmobile, then proceedinto the untrodden expanses, either with an instructor or on your own.

Quick as the wind on sled dogs

The magic of nature, as well as friendly Alaskan and Siberian huskies, will turn your vacation into a fairy tale at the Chukavino Sled Dog Centre, one of just a few professional dog-sled racing centers in Russia. It breeds Siberian and Alaskan huskies and Samoyed laikas, with over 40 dogs at the kennel. Chukavino dogs are not only excellent athletes, they are also trusting and friendly, and they love children and are good at posing for pictures.

“Marshmallow wonderland”

After you have enjoyed some wonderful selfies, continue your journey to Likhoslavlsky district, where “Marshmallow wonderland” awaits you in the village of Mikhailova Gora. It’s a famous tasty treat from the area, which the villagers cook using a special recipe, without artificial dyes or preservatives, but with a filling made out of forest berries, nuts, dried fruits and even ginger root. The produce of the small private factory has made it to the Top 100Goods of Russia! There is entertainment on hand for adults and children alike, including Baba Yaga, who happens to be kind and not at all scary in this fairy tale.

For more information, visit “Welcome Tver!” at welcometver.ru

Text: Oleg Zlobin

A meeting on tourism development was held in the village of Donskoye, situated in the very heart of Russia, which brought together the heads of the districts of the region with professionals from the tourism industry, alongside those who just care about their “Lipetsk Land”.

A new registered tourism brand has appeared in the region this year with just that title, “Lipetsk Land”. According to experts, it is easier to develop the many new, as well as long-established tourism routes in the history-rich Chernozem territory under such an umbrella banner.

Oleg Korolyov addressed the audience: “I deeply understand the meaning of what you are doing. It so happened in my life that, when I was still a young leader of a kolkhoz [collective farm], I got to travel a lot. A great deal. And, as a young man, I couldn’t hold back tears at what I saw…

In any village, any regional centre or city, I saw great historic treasure troves in a state of destruction: churches, the manors of the nobility, country estates, family tombs that had been robbed… I wept from incomprehension: How was it possible to win wars against the Tatars, Napoleon and Hitler, and yet not be able to withstand such barbarism from within, such a blatant, egregious lack of culture?! How was it possible to despoil and demolish such great and essential historical values of Russia?”

“Tourism is not just some trend,” Korolyov says. “It is a very great deed, a category that is both cultural and moral.” He believes the development of the tourism industry will allow the region and the country as a whole to solve its most essential tasks.

“The first such goal,” the head of the Lipetsk region went on, “is the opportunity to serve your country and your community, and to restore what has been destroyed. Tourism is profoundly important; it encourages respect for the Motherland and commits us to putting our effort and energy into the restoration of historic relics. Tourism helps each of us remember that we are the sons and daughters of the Motherland, something that provides inspiration to do something, to rebuild something in our homeland.”

Korolyov considers the most important aspect of the tourism industry to be its contribution to increasing the general cultural level of the Russian people.

“Tourism is a powerful mechanism for developing culture in the wider sense. By creating conditions for attracting tourists, we have to actively strive to correct many existing faults that we may never have noticed before.”

Finally, in addition to such cultural and moral categories, the economic aspect is also very important. Tourism must become a profitable business, and taking a negative attitude toward tourism is unacceptable. Korolyov has decided that issues regarding the development of tourism clusters and infrastructure in the Lipetsk Region, where both the industrial and agricultural sectors are developing successfully, will be a top priority for discussions at all levels.

Such an attitude from the administration toward one of the most forward-looking directions for the social and economic development of the region has already yielded tangible results.

In recent years, the Lipetsk Region’s place on the national ranking for attraction to tourists has increased from 59 to 20. The “locals-to-tourists” ratio is 100 Lipetsk residents to 17 tourists. According to official data, more than 200,000 travellers visited the region last year, but local authorities believe the actual number was actually higher. According to Vadim Volkov, head of the Culture and Tourism Department, this official data does not include pilgrims or the participants and guests of the numerous festivals that take place on the “Lipetsk Land”.

Tourists are attracted by the powerful gravitational pull of special events such as the Rusborg historical reenactment festival, as well as sites such as the Kudykina Gora Safari Park, the Skorynyakovo-Arkhangelskoye estate that has now been restored from ruins, Maslovka village in the Dankovsky district, and the churches of Balovnevo and Beryozovka. As for the ancient city of Yelets, it has already become a popular tourist destination for Muscovites.

Understanding all the aspects of a problem ensures an intelligent solution. The region’s leaders believe that such solutions include the integrated development of the Lipetsk tourism industry, as well as the creation of turn-key business locations for investors, and the digital transformation of tourist routes. In the future, the administration intends to support all promising projects aimed at attracting tourists to the region.

Tourism by numbers

1,000,000: Guests who took part in 300 events in the Lipetsk Region over the last two years.

477: Directional signs for tourists installed on regional highways.

148: Free audio-guides for mobile devices created in the Lipetsk Region, which can be accessed from anywhere in the world.

1.7 billion rubles: Investments in the “Zadonshchina” auto-tourism cluster along the M4 highway.

1.9 billion rubles: Projected investment in the new Yelets tourism/recreation cluster.

48 percent: Growth in tourism to the Lipetsk Region since 2014.

1st: Ranking of the Chaplyginsk district of the Lipetsk Region as the most developed tourism infrastructure in the Central Federal District.

12: Number of years that the regional Law on Special Economic Zones, which offer investors tax benefits and preferences, has been in effect in the Lipetsk Region.

1 ruble: Price per square meter for leasing cultural heritage sites under a programme proposed by the regional authorities, which is designed to draw investment directed at the preservation and restoration of old manor houses.

Tula
15-16
September 2018

Kulikovo Field Festival
Tula Region, Kurkinsky District, Kulikovo Field Museum
The Kulikovo Field International Military and Patriotic Festival is held each year to mark Dmitry Donskoi’s victory over the Golden Horde in 1380. Here you can experience a real medieval battle and a knights’ tournament. You can take part in archery or fencing competitions. You can also visit the memorial on the Red Hill, a museum complex in the village of Monastyrshchino, the Market House Museum in the village of Yepifan, and the Museum of St.Matrona of Moscow.

Sochi
27-30
September 2018

Formula 1 Russian Grand Prix 2018 Sochi, Olympic Park, Autodrom
The Formula 1 Russian Grand Prix will be held at the Sochi Autodrom, the first and only track in the country hosting these “royal races”, and the most modern year-round motor speedway complex in Europe. The Sochi Autodrom will gather the 20 best racers on the planet out of ten teams. Russia will be represented by Sergey Sirotkin.

Kamyshin
25-26
August 2018

Watermelon Festival
Volgograd region, Kamyshin, city centre
Don’t miss the 11th Watermelon Festival. This vibrant, juicy celebration draws over 30,000 guests every year. Guests will be greeted with an abundance of interactive venues, bazaars, free watermelon refreshment stands, contests, and a sailing regatta. One of the most memorable events is the Watermelon Parade, which travels through the length of the town along its central streets and across the Borodinsky Bridge. This year’s festival coincides with the town’s anniversary: Kamyshin is turning 350 years old. Therefore, this year’s guests can expect even more thrills and spectacle—as well as memorable performances from pop stars on the festival’s second day.

St. Petersburg
04
November 2018

The Festival of Light
St. Petersburg, Moscow Square
The festival concept was developed at the Council of Representatives of the World Festival Association. The main idea of the project– which will take place in every country in the world – is to connect with the city’s history and iconography. In 2016, the Light Festival made a splash with a light show projected on the facade of the Alexandrinsky Theatre. Using 3D-mapping technology, the producers incorporated the architecture of St. Petersburg’s oldest theater and other buildings in a play of light, music and optical illusions. Last year, the light show took place at St. Petersburg’s new Arena Stadium.

Veliky Novgorod
06-11
October/November 2018

Gourmet Festival
Veliky Novgorod, 5 Sennaya Square
All month long, Novgorod residents and guests will delight in ancient gourmet dishes—or their modern renditions. Last year, the guests of this mouthwatering autumn festival were able to try Novgorod fish stew with sturgeon and pike, market-style honey pork ribs, Ilmen bream ribs with turnip and onion jelly, and other Novgorod delicacies. Festival guests can delight in the culinary art of Veliky Novgorod’s best chefs, and take a delicious trip into the history of ancient Rus. National Cuisine Days will be held as part of the festival, representing dishes from Estonia, Finland, Mexico, Latvia, China, and the United States.

Yakutsk
25-03
November/December 2018

Winter Begins in Yakutia
Yakutsk, villages of Tomtor and Oymyakon, Oymyakonsky Settlement [ulus]
The Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) is the coldest region of the Northern Hemisphere, and the village of Oymyakon has won the title of “Pole of Cold”. The lowest recorded temperature here is -71.2C (-96.2F). Yakutia residents greet the onset of Russian Winter on December 1. The Russian Santa Claus, Ded Moroz [Father Frost], pays an annual visit to Chyyskhan, the Yakut Master of Cold and Winter, in his royal residence in the Kingdom of Permafrost.

Izhevsk
26-09
January/February 2019

World Pelmeni Day
Izhevsk, Central Square, city restaurants and cafes
This festival’s slogan is: “Udmurtiya—Birthplace of Pelmeni!” Last year, 35,000 guests visited the event that celebrates pelmeni, Russia’s ubiquitous meatfilled dumplings. There, they set the record for the most pelmeni ever eaten in one place—74,059 to be precise. During the holiday, pelmeni makers sold seven tons of pelmeni products. The festival’s program included master-classes in pelmenimaking in city restaurants and cafes, as well as a series of Pelmeni workshops, concerts, best-chef awards, and contests for the grand prize: a year’s worth of pelmeni.

Photos and text: Anton Agarkov

It is said that once upon a time, among the ordinary birds, the spirits of nature flew here in the form of swans. Once here, they removed their wings and turned into beautiful maidens. At the time, the people knew nothing of the lake, or of the swans. Then one day a hunter came to the lake and by chance saw the spirits in human form. When he saw them, he fell in love. Then, to keep the beautiful spirit with him, the hunter stole and hid the maiden’s wings. Everything went according to plan—despairing of finding her wings and returning to bird form, the maiden stayed with the hunter. And that was how the Kumandin race—the swan people—were born.

Censuses in the Soviet era varied between classifying the Kumandins as a separate ethnic group or combining them with the Altai people. Linguists were also at odds as to whether the Kumandin language could be classified as a separate tongue. There were also those who thought the Kumandins were simply a group of Altaians who claimed unique ethnic status just to gain privileges of some sort. The Kumandins themselves, however, always considered their people to be separate. Once there were many more of them, with their own rituals, customs, and traditions. Guests were greeted with a pipe-smoking ceremony, while they bid farewell to the dead by carrying the coffin three times around the home and smoking dry juniper in order to close the gates to the underworld behind the departed. They had their own religion and their own shamanic healers, called kamy, who traveled in the underworld and the higher realm to talk with the spirits. Even in the Soviet era, when Party officials and collective farm managers were fatally sick, they called not only for doctors, but also for one of the kamy. And it some cases, it even helped.

Today, the Kumandin number just over 3 000. Once nomads, hunters, and fishermen, at the beginning of the 21st century the Kumandins swapped hunting for homesteading, and their fishing opportunities are now restricted by quotas. If you ask them where to go to see Kumandin culture in all its glory, the swan-people will tell you: “Go back in time 70 years.”

THE KUMANDIN ALWAYS CONSIDERED themselves a separate people. Once there were many more of them, with their own rit!als, customs, and traditions. Guests were g”eeted with a pipesmoking ceremony. They had their own religion and their own shamans– kamy, who travelled to the underworld and the higher realm.

It is difficult to say why this group was unable to maintain its ethnic identity. On the one hand, the Soviet system fought against their beliefs, as it did against any religion. And, while no one was forbidden from speaking their native language, young Kumandins nevertheless preferred Russian. Further damage was done by ethnographic expeditions, which pillaged from Kumandian villages- costumes, shamanic ritual relics, and traditional household artifacts. Now, in order to see their own traditional costumes, Kumandins have, with great difficulty, to get into the archives of
the State Hermitage Museum.

Historians will dig deeper still. The Kumandins were never an aggressive people. When Russian settlers came to the foothills of Altai, the locals met them as friends, teaching them how to survive in the taiga and how to get through the harsh winters. In return, they were dispossessed and slaughtered. Rather than answering violence with violence, the swan people just retreated further into the forest.

However, deprived of almost everything and pushed back to the very brink—the point of no return—the Kumandins desperately cling on to their way of life and their future. They have begun to revive their native language. Activists from ethnic societies make expeditions deep into the countryside to find older generations and record their words and legends. Then, at Sunday schools, they teach their children the Kumandin language. The children are happy to attend the lessons, and show off to their peers that they belong to the ancient people of Altai. After all, these days it is fashionable to have a unique identity. In the evenings, in small village houses, it is increasingly common to find gatherings of dignified old ladies who make special Kumandin dumplings with minced potato, drink tea with tolkan (roasted wheat ground between stones), talk about life, and burst into song. What they sing is always heartfelt, and always in the Kumandin language.

TEXT: ANTON SEMENOV

-Aleksey, how did the exhibition go?

– Our national exposition RUSSIA OPEN TO THE WORLD provoked great interest among our colleagues in the profession, buyers, organizers of international events, and representatives of the trade press. More than a thousand event industry professionals visited the exposition, and more than 600 meetings and discussions took place at our stand.

– Your association represented our whole country. Isn’t that level of responsibility frightening?

– That was the purpose of establishing the association last November. Our main goal is to develop and promote a positive image of Russia as a country with a favourable business and investment climate, in order to attract international business events.

We are going to promote the infrastructure capabilities of the Russian regions, with the aim of getting major conferencing events hosted there and developing business travel to these areas. This provides a signifi cant economic eff ect both for the state budget and for companies involved in the meetings industry.

– Was there a need to create an organization like this?

– Russia’s share of the international business events market is less than 1%, and the Russian conventions,
conferences, and business meetings sector is valued by experts at about $200-250 million. To put that in context, the worldwide turnover for the industry is $900 billion. Th e industry accounts for only 0.02% of Russia’s GDP, while in Europe’s leading economies that figure reaches 2% or more.

We represent the whole country rather than any particular region, providing a “one-stop service” for international event organizers. We also provide marketing solutions, and develop strategies to promote the country at the international level. Th e Convention Bureau participates in a variety of prominent events and arranges familiarization tours in the Russian regions for foreign buyers.

– Who are the members of your association?

– The association works with regional government departments and with market participants in the meetings industry—regional convention bureaus, event organizing companies, convention and exhibition venues, hotels, and transportation companies.

– What can Russia offer foreign clients?

– We have more than 100 cities that could potentially host major conventions and forums. Moreover, the top ten of them – Vladivostok, Yekaterinburg, Krasnodar, Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Moscow, St.Petersburg, Sochi, Ufa, and Chelyabinsk – are ready to host major high-level events right now.

TEXT: DENIS FURMANOV

The main avenue of the city, Bolshaya Sadovaya Ulitsa (“Great Garden Street”) got its name back in the 19th century when it was surrounded by the tender pale pink of apple and cherry orchards, in place of the large stone buildings that now line the street. Looking now at this city of over a million inhabitants, it’s hard to believe that until the middle of the 19th century there were only 14 streets in Rostov-on-Don. The main buildings on Bolshaya Sadovaya date back to the construction boom that came to the city with the development of the port and the introduction of the railroad. At the turn of the 20th century, rich men from all over the south – bankers, grain merchants, and even artists – built themselves mansions along the street. In the “Russian Chicago”, as it was jokingly known at the time, the finest architects of the era let their fantasies roam free.

The first photo that every tourist takes in Rostov-on-Don is a selfie in front of the monument to St. Dmitry on the square in front of the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin. The cathedral was built in the Russo-Byzantine style by Konstantin Ton, architect of the Kremlin Armory and Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow, and is an exact copy of his Presentation Cathedral in St.Petersburg (destroyed in 1933).

Running from Bolshaya Sadovaya Ulitsa to the cathedral is the pedestrian Soborny district that is the Rostov equivalent of Moscow’s Arbat, with numerous cafés and souvenir stores. Beneath the cathedral walls lies one of the most vibrant city sites – the Central Market.

On the other side of Bolshaya Sadovaya can be found Rostov’s historic central park, now bearing the name of the writer Maxim Gorky. Right behind the park stands another fi ne building – Rostov’s City Hall and Parliament, the facade of which boasts more than 250 sculptures and artistic decorations. In the evenings, carefully designed lighting adds to the town hall’s fairy-tale atmosphere. The building is an exquisite example of fi n de siècle architecture. For many years it was painted white, and the locals fondly compared it to a sponge cake with whipped cream. Then, a couple of years ago, its original color scheme was restored, so now they joke that it’s more like a crème brulée.

Rostov’s modern inhabitants are also keen on creative experiments. Head to the next major intersection, and you’ll find a hotel in the shape of a milk bottle. From the restaurant on the top fl oor, you get a fantastic panoramic view of the city center, while down below there’s a karaoke club with its own music studio.

Rostov’s theaters are also highly unusual. Th e Rostov State Musical Th eater was built in the form of a white grand piano with the lid open, while the Maxim Gorky Rostov Academic Drama Theatre was supposedly inspired by the Soviet Union’s fi rst tractor. The Gorky Th eater merits a mention in numerous books on Soviet architecture, as well as museum exhibitions, as one of the fi nest extant examples of constructivism in Russia. For example, in the London Museum of Architecture there are only two exhibits representing Russia – including models of Moscow’s St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Gorky Th eater in Rostov. Even so, few know that the high reliefs that decorate the theater
are the work of the well-known sculptor Sergey Korolkov, a Don cossack from the village of Konstantinovsky. Internationally renowned as an artist and designer, his works illustrated the fi rst edition of Mikhail Sholokhov’s Quiet Flows the Don.

Come to this Don capital, take a walk round town, breathe in the warm southern air, and you’ll never want to leave!

City STATISTICS

Population: 1,125,300.
Ethnic Groups: More than 150.
Houses of Worship: About 40 Russian Orthodox churches – including churches of the Old Believers. Churches of the Armenian Apostolic, Roman Catholic and Greek Orthodox faiths can also be found, in addition to a mosque, Buddhist centers, and Jewish synagogues.
Bridges: The city has 7 bridges, and the embankments stretch for more than 2km along the river.
Attraction: Rostov boasts one of Europe’s largest zoos.
Sport: Rostov Arena hosted matches of the FIFA World Cup in the summer of 2018.

TEXT: OLGA POPLAVSKAYA

Almost a third of the territory of Adygea is protected as part of UNESCO’s West Caucasus World Natural Heritage Site. The republic’s most striking natural feature is its unusual cave system, which run through the mountains like the holes in Swiss cheese. The pride of Adygea is the Lago-Naki Plateau, remarkable for its limestone karst, comprised of underground streams that have formed interlinked chambers and galleries. If there’s still snow cover when you’re trekking through the mountains in Adygea, heed caution – there could be deep sinkholes underneath the snow!

For travelers on a budget

Andrey Nazarkin, a keen spelunker and cave exploring enthusiast from Volgograd, is not a rich man- nor are his friends. However, with four of them in an SUV loaded to the gills with tents, tinned food, and all sorts of other provisions, their seven-day trip through Adygea cost almost nothing (not counting, of course, the cost of gas and the initial outlay on the trunkful of food). The only expense the travelers incurred in Adygea was the conservation fee for entry into the Caucasus Nature Reserve of around $5 USD per person, per day. It’s also worth noting that there is a fine of around $40 per person for pitching a tent on an unauthorized site.

Moreover, there’s really no need to bring provisions with you to Adygea. On your way to the mountains, you’ll pass through several villages, with stores and small local markets where you can buy fresh Adygei cheese, locally made wine, bread, vegetables, fruits, and meat for grilling.

If you wish to, you can also choose to leave your car parked in the yard of a local’s house (there are residents who offer this service for a reasonable daily rate), and then take a taxi to the entrance of the Lago-Naki Plateau. The staff of the Emergency Situations Ministry on duty there will always ask where you’re headed. This is because if worst comes to worst, they’ll be the ones to come looking for you either in helicopters or on foot with dogs!

“We’ve visited Adygea twice, once to the Lago-Naki Plateau at the end of May, and then in autumn, when the first snow had already fallen, to the Bolshoy Tkhach nature reserve,” Andrey tells me. “What we were really interested in were the caves. For example, the Great Bird cave on Lago-Naki Plateau is so high up that to start with, we had to climb a glacier and get all our ropes and other kit up there before going inside. But the Lago-Naki Plateau itself is stunningly beautiful. It’s a real lost world. Th ere’s one ravine there where I took most of my photos for the trip. Once upon a time during an earthquake, huge stones rained down into the ravine, creating an extraordinary labyrinth. And in the middle of this stone labyrinth mountain flowers bloom luxuriantly. Right on the bare cliff face, there are gorgeous rhododendrons with big white flowers.

On one day of our week-long visit to the plateau, my friends went to investigate the Absolyutnaya shaft , but they quickly realized that they’d be risking life and limb going into that cave, and decided not to bother. Even in summer, that particular hole in the cliff s is full of ice and snow. On the other hand, our trek to Psenodakh Lake gave us some wonderful views. There’s a straight path to Psenodakh Lake along the foot of Mount Oshten, so it’s hard to get lost. Th ere are no great changes in gradient, so it’s almost completely safe if you don’t count the risk of slippery patches of snow. The path is about 9km in each direction, and if you want to see the landscape at its best, try to get an early start – there’s not much sun there aft er 1pm. There are marks on the stones showing the path to the lake.” Psenodakh in the Adyghe language means “beautiful well”. Th e lake is about 1938m above sea level and is crescent-shaped. Th ey say it’s a site of mystic energy, so it’s a popular destination with lovers of esoterica.

“The Bolshoy Tkhach nature park has very beautiful forest, where we saw bear prints,” continues Andrey. “Th en we bumped into some hunters who asked if we’d seen any actual bears and warned us to hide all our food at night if we didn’t want bears coming to tear up our tents.”

Mountainous Adygea also boasts the world’s most unusual sea – the “Sea of Stones”, which resembles a 100m stone collar that grips the Lago-Naki Plateau at its eastern end. Th e Sea of Stones is a natural object protected by UNESCO. In reality, it’s the product of frozen lava, which erupted from a volcano at the bottom of the ancient ocean of Tethys. Between the ridges of Oshten and the Sea of Stones, there’s a cliff called the Hedgehog, and nearby on the way to the Guzeriplskiy Pass is a viewing platform off ering spectacular views with the wonderful name “The Hedgehog’s Navel”.

The Lago-Naki Plateau itself is stunningly beautiful. It’s a real lost world. Right on the bare cliff face, there are gorgeous rhododendrons with big white flowers.

For lovers of comfort
Svetlana Djigaros and her daughter Diana traveled to Adygea’s tourist capital, the village of Kamennomostskiy, located only 40 minutes by taxi or scheduled bus from Maykop. Th e village off ers a number of hotels, with room rates starting at around $10 a night per person.

Kamennomostskiy (“Stone Bridge”) got its name from the bridge crossing the Belaya River that leads to the area’s main visitor attraction, the Khadzhokhskaya Gorge. Th ere’s a toll of $5 to cross the bridge, but some locals recommended a way to reach the gorge without using it. Th e Khadzhokhskaya Gorge is a remarkable place. Th e river roared its way through the mountains here, creating a bubbling brook between majestic cliffs.

An hour-and-a-half walk from the gorge is the Rufabgo Waterfall. It’s not an easy destination to reach, and requires travelling through forest and canyons with steep ascents and descents. It’s a beautiful place, but the beauty alone was not enough for the Djigorases – mother and daughter booked a canyoning trip through the waterfall. Th is activity costs $32 per person, and children as young as 10 can have a go. “We wanted something extreme,” recounts Svetlana.

“Canyoning seemed a really interesting idea. We were provided with the necessary climbing equipment and a training session. Th en the instructors led us down on ropes straight through the waterfall, down the cliff s, and along the riverbed. It was so exciting that the following day we decided to go raft ing along one of the most dangerous rivers in the country – the Belaya River. Th e raft ing course travelled not along the standard route, but along a special extended route recommended for athletes (Diana is a well-known judo practitioner). It cost $80 for the two of us and was worth every cent. I’m still over the moon about our holiday to Adygea. They can say what they like about the lack of service, but the attraction of Adygea is its wild beauty, its pristine nature, and of course the adrenalin rush of the activities.”

The next day, Svetlana and Diana visited the dolmens around Kamennomostskiy. Close to the village there’s a concentration of 14 dolmens. The most magnifi cent of these is Chygyudzh, which has survived completely intact to this day. Th e next morning, mother and daughter headed for Azishskaya Cave. This is the largest cave equipped for visitors on the Lago-Naki Plateau, with a wealth of stalactites and stalagmites. Inside the caves, the temperature is a constant 4ºC year-round, and there are coats available for hire at the entrance. Group and individual guided tours are off ered. Entry prices are as follows: adults $6.50 and children $3 for group tours, adults $8 and children $5 for individual excursions.

“On day five, we went to the Mishoko Ravine. It’s a diffi cult two-hour trek through some picturesque scenery and a prehistoric cave, so we were very appreciative of the hot lunch that was provided to us upon arrival at our destination. Inside the ravine it’s unbelievably beautiful, with a great feeling of space and a light breeze carrying the scent of meadow flowers, the chatter of birds, and the buzzing of bees. Thrill-seekers can fl y over Mishoko Ravine on a zip line, the cost of which is $25. You sweep over the abyss from one cliff to another, and it’s not for the faint-hearted.”

On their sixth day, Svetlana and Diana visited some thermal springs, of which there are many in Adygea. You can reach them easily enough by taxi, and the entry fees start at $4.00, depending on the spring you choose to visit. On their seventh day, Svetlana and Diana Djigaros simply went strolling around the area, dressing up in traditional local costumes for photographs, just breathing in the mountain air. If they had wanted to, however, they could have found more to do. For example, taking a ride on the cable car to the Devil’s Finger cliff on Una-Koz Ridge, which costs $10 per person.

If you’re planning to eat out all the time, bear in mind that the local cafés are oriented to tourists, with prices to match – a single cheburek meat pie can cost $1.30. Svetlana Djigaros calculated that the entire cost of the week-long trip for her and her daughter in Adygea was a little over $650.

Getting THERE

How to get there
There is no airport in Maykop. Visitors usually take the train to Krasnodar or Armavir, and a bus from the bus stations in either city to Maykop. From the capital of Adygea, you can reach Kamennomostskiy or
the other tourist centers and leisure camps of the republic by taxi or minibus.

What to see
One has to travel by car to reach the Lago-Naki Plateau by taking the Maykop-Kamennomostskiy (also called Khadzhokh) road and turning right shortly before reaching the settlement of Dakhovskaya. The route is well signposted. There are no scheduled buses, so the only alternative is to hire a taxi.

What to wear
The weather in Adygea can abruptly change in a single day, and there are also several climatic zones in the mountains. It’s worth bearing this in mind and packing your rucksack with several layers that you can quickly put on or take off. It’s also a good idea to take something waterproof with you.

TEXT: EKATERINA LYULCHAK

There are a great number of destinations in Russia suitable for mountaineering beginners to go trekking. For the most part, popular treks run through the “small mountains” – the Khibiny, the Urals, the Sayan, or in Kamchatka – or through the foothills of the “big mountains” – the Caucasus and Altai.

Mounts Narodnaya and Manaraga

These mountains are a good starting point for anyone who has never been mountaineering before. Mount Narodnaya (1895m) is the highest peak in the Urals, located within the Yugid Va National Park, which is on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It is also the largest national park in Russia. Not far from Narodnaya stands Mount Manaraga (1662m), which is considered to be the most beautiful mountain of the Subarctic Ural Region. The great advantage for beginners is the proximity of these two mountains, making it easy to reach both peaks in a single trek. A standard trek lasts nine days, and covers a 110km walking route.

Trekking in the Urals is not expensive – around $160 per person, which includes transfer in an SUV from Inty Station to the Zhelannaya Camp, from which your trek begins. You’ll be welcomed there by your guide and instructor, with hire equipment already prepared for you – a tent, a sleeping bag, a gas stove, and (to the joy of every traveler) a mobile sauna. Narodnaya is even suitable for older children, as the ascent is rated in the simplest 1A category.

Getting there:
The first point on your journey is Vorkuta (flights from Moscow from $130). From there you can take the train to Inta. The five-hour train trip costs $8.

EXPERT OPINIONS

YULIA NAUMOVA, Assistant Director of SunTrek:
“For us, the highest demand is for uncategorized mountain treks. These are popular with a wide range of tourists, including families with young children and pensioners – everybody who wants to enjoy the beauty of the mountains, but do so in comfort and with no risk. Our most popular routes are in the Elbrus foothills, Dombay, and Arkhyz. We’ve given up on tents and heavy rucksacks. All through the treks, our tourists spend the night in hotels with showers and a proper breakfast, and eat their meals in cafés. They are taken to the start of their trek by car, and collected at that end. A standard trek can last four hours or the whole day, but the pace and intensity of the trekking is always tailored to the travelers’ capabilities. People can take a walk through the hills, take a rest when they want to, and stop for unhurried photography.

Cherskiy Peak

The Khamar-Daban mountain range, which is crowned by Cherskiy Peak (2090m), is one of the most interesting and picturesque regions of all Eastern Siberia. The mountains here are not high, but they are very munificent, with lots of berries, mushrooms, and pine nuts (khamar means “nut” in the Buryat language). It is also the location of the most interesting floatable rivers and warm lakes. The climate here is very humid, and Khamar-Daban is often referred to as the “Siberian tropics”. A walk through the charming forest clears the lungs and calms the nerves, while a climb up Cherskiy Peak offers the reward of fantastic views of Lake Baikal. The ascent of Cherskiy Peak is not considered difficult, and visitors make the climb and back in just a few hours, with a camera, a thermos of tea, and a good mood being the only provisions required. A standard itinerary with three days of trekking and climbing costs $65-80, which includes accommodation at a leisure camp then in tents at a campsite, food, and a guide/instructor. Rafting down the Irkut River of Class 2 or Class 3 difficulty can be added to the itinerary, for those who are interested.

Trekking in the Urals is not expensive – around $160 per person, which includes transfer, a guide and instructor, and equipment hire – tent, sleeping bag, and gas stove, and (to the joy of every traveler) a mobile sauna.

Getting there:
First fly to Irkutsk (direct flights from Moscow are around $370), and then take the train to Slyudyanka ($8-16), which takes around eight hours.

Oshten

Oshten (2804m) is a peak in the Lago-Naki Uplands, part of the foothills of Mount Elbrus. Once upon a time, Oshten was a coral reef in an ancient ocean, which is what gives its cliffs their pinkish tone. Here you can find fossilized ammonites (ancient molluscs), and the imprints of starfish, sea-urchins, and coral in the stones. The simple ascent (category 1A) and the many interesting palaeontological finds on the route to Oshten make it very popular with travellers. The best time for trekking in Lago-Naki and an ascent of Oshten is between May and October. These are the months when the slopes are free of snow, and the routes are accessible for almost anybody. Don’t forget, however, to bring hiking poles with you to help on the steeper ascents and descents. A big advantage of travel in the Elbrus region is the comparatively well-developed infrastructure for tourists. There’s no problem here finding somewhere to spend the night. Three days of trekking with food, lodging at the superior Lago-Naki leisure camp, and ascent of Oshten with an instructor costs $160-200.

Getting there:
You can get to Krasnodar by plane, train or automobile for $50-80, then take a local train to Khadzhokh for a further $3.

Khibiny
The Khibiny Mountains, located within the Arctic Circle on the Kola Peninsula, offer a well-established trekking route that runs through seven simple mountain passes. The Khibiny are not the highest mountains in the world, but they do boast 400m precipices. The highest point in the Khibiny is Mount Yudychvumchorr. Although only 1,200m high, the thin Arctic air on its slopes gives the feel of ascending a much higher mountain. The Khibiny are very beautiful, the mountainsides covered with ice caves, glacial cirques, and more than 30 mountain lakes with exceptionally pure water.

The trekking routes in the Khibiny are normally circular, with tourists making a trek of about 100km to return to their departure point. Throughout the trek, you pitch camp every night with the help of your guide. No special equipment is required beyond the standard set of hiking provisions – sleeping bags, appropriate
clothing, walking boots, and a thermos. Even though there is no actual climbing involved, trekking in the Khibiny is restricted to those older than 14. A week-long trek works out at around $160-190 per person.

Getting there:
The flight from Moscow to Apatity is relatively lowcost – from $80. From Apatity, it’s best to order a taxi, which for only $8 will take you to the required leisure camp.

Avacha Volcano
To ascend not just any peak, but to conquer the summit of a real volcano is a challenge for the particularly adventurous. To view a panorama of massive fire-breathing mountains and to look right inside a crater is possible in Kamchatka. Avacha Volcano (2,741m) is located 30km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Climbers are taken to the base of the volcano, where they are put up in guest houses for a night. You can leave most of your belongings there, as no special equipment is required and all you need is a small rucksack with dry food and spare clothes. The route of ascent takes you across lava fields, over the deep crevasse of the Sukhaya River, and up to the crest of the volcano. The ascent takes 6-8 hours, and the return trek is a further 3-4 hours. The distance covered on the ascent is only 8km, but the final stage of the climb, where the incline is 30º, takes some effort. The trekking season runs from the end of July to the beginning of September, and the cost of the tour per person is $120.

Getting there:
A ticket to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky from Moscow is not cheap – upwards of $400. From there, it’s easiest to order a taxi, which will cost around $8.

If you’re preparing for a serious ascent, you’ll need grapnels, a harness, an icepick, a helmet, three locking carabiners, climbing boots, lined over boots, and a safety lanyard.

EXPERT OPINIONS

VLADIMIR KAVUNENKO, international master mountaineer:
If you’re going to the mountains, you have to understand that a tourist is not the same as a mountaineer. There are many mountains it’s better not to visit for people who just want to relax and enjoy the view. Moreover, the difficulty of the ascent is not always dependent on the height. For example, my favourite mountain Ushba (4,700m) in the Central Caucasus is lower than Elbrus, but far harder to climb. Its double summit is known throughout the mountaineering world. There’s even a club of “Ushba lovers” in England – the mountaineering elite. However, for beginners even Elbrus is dangerous. The weather changes there very quickly, and sometimes the wind twists so hard it’s impossible to move. That’s why those who love the mountains are brave, but also cautious. I’d recommend beginners start slowly, and definitely get some proper instruction and training.

Belukha
The Altai beauty Belukha (4,509m) is one of Russia’s highest mountains. Legend has it that this is the site of the hub of the universe and the gateway to the mystical Shambala. The route of ascent on Belukha can be divided into two parts – the trekking stage and the technical stage. The trekking stage, which is suitable even for children, starts in the village of Tyungur, follows a forest path up the mountain slope, and ends when you emerge at the pretty Akkemskoye Lake, where the group makes a base camp. Here at the base of Belukha, there are various leisure camps with different levels of comfort, and for $13-16 per night you can rent a room in a guest house, for example at the Vysotnik leisure camp.

Once at camp, the experienced and properly trained climbers – the only ones who can continue the ascent – start to get acclimatized with trips out onto the ice to practice with ice-climbing gear. From here on, the ascent is classified in the very challenging 3A category. The climb goes up snow-covered cliffs, and in place you’ll encounter the odd glacier. You’ll need to take with you a proper climbing rucksack with grapnels, an ice pick, and sleeping bag. After a ten-hour climb to the summit of Belukha, the mountaineers return to base. The full trek with final ascent takes around ten days and costs $800.

Getting there:
The starting point for the trip is Gorno-Altaysk (flights from Moscow start at $320). Cheap buses run from there to Tyungur – the village at the foot of Belukha.

Elbrus
The magnificent two-headed Elbrus (5,642m) is the crowning achievement for amateur mountaineers in Russia. Before beginning their ascent on the highest peak in the country, visitors get acclimatized in the Adyl-Su ravine, where they make short climbs in the foothills of Elbrus, during which they visit the observatory at the summit of Terscop Peak and the Devichi Kosy (“Maiden’s Tresses”) waterfall. Then they spend two or three days with instructors making preparatory climbs to heights of 4,000–5,000m, sleeping in tents or leisure camps. On the seventh day, they make the ascent on the western peak of Elbrus.

The ascent and return to camp take up to 14 hours. The classic southern route is classed as of medium difficulty (2A), while other routes are all classed as difficult (3A), so tourists need to be in good shape and properly equipped. If you’re not confident in your abilities, however, you can opt for a more comfortable ascent with the help of winches and snowcats. Ten days on Elbrus with accommodation, meals, and guide services included cost around $480.

Getting there:
The nearest airports to Elbrus are in Nalchik and Mineralnye Vody (flights from Moscow from $80). For there to the village of Terskol, where trekking routes begin, there are scheduled buses or you can take a taxi.

The Kurgan Region has everything necessary to actively develop hunting tours—beautiful scenery, forest rich in game, and extensive hunting grounds. In fact, the region is generally considered a paradise for hunters. Kurgan’s forests harbour a wide range of fowl and large animals, and the most popular quarry is the Siberian roe deer.

Moreover, you can hunt in the region all year round. High levels of service, qualified gamekeepers, accommodation in wooden hunting lodges, Russian steam baths, excellent equipment, and game with exceptional trophy value all make Kurgan a tempting destination for superior hunting holidays.

The area is home to moose, wild boar, wolves, and many other animal species. Hunting for fowl is particularly attractive due to the wide variety and bountiful stocks, particularly of wood grouse, geese, ducks, and black grouse.

Hunting tours to Kurgan Region have long been popular with foreigners, and every year around 300 hunters come to the region from countries including Germany, Austria, Spain, Hungary, and Poland.

The region boasts 147 private hunting estates, 49 publicly accessible hunting grounds, and 20 regionally recognized state game reserves. In all these areas, you can find everything necessary to organize a satisfactory hunting trip, with campsites and holiday camps where a warm welcome, comfortable accommodation and facilities, delicious food, and assistance with arranging recreation activities all await you.

Holidays with children

Not far from the village of Glyadyanskoye—the centre of the Pritobolniy District—there is a comfortable holiday camp, where all visitors are politely greeted by the resident hunting dog, Ayk. The two-storey wooden cottages are fully fitted, and the camp has extensive grounds with cozy recreation zones that will please the whole family. Here they organize great hunting summer and winter, for fowl, deer, hares, foxes and moose. And, for those not interested in hunting, they also offer photo safaris, which follow special routes to show you the main types of local fauna and beautiful pine forest scenery, with opportunities to take truly spectacular photographs. Also on offer at the camp are quad bikes, snowmobiles, and hang gliding, while the administration arranges a busy calendar of events and entertainments.

HUNTING TOURS TO KURGAN REGION HAVE LONG BEEN POPULAR WITH FOREIGNERS, EACH YEAR, AROUND 300 HUNTERS FROM GERMANY, AUSTRIA, SPAIN, HUNGARY, AND POLAND VISIT KURGAN REGION.

Popular hunting grounds

The Kamagan Hunting Ground is located near Bolshoy Kamagan Lake, which offers excellent hunting opportunities for water fowl. The camp is fitted with everything necessary for hunting and recreation, and boasts its own pheasant run, where these truly regal birds are reared for hunting.

The Peschano-Kaledinskiy Hunting Ground comprises 30000ha of birch and aspen forest, marsh, and fields sown with alfalfa and wheat, where deer and boar come to feed. The place is popular with hunters from Germany, Italy, and France, who come not just for the hunting, but also simply to enjoy the truly pristine wilderness.

It is this, as well as the high rate of success for hunters, that means that most visitors leave Kurgan Region not just fully satisfied, but evenwith a new lease on life.

There are two tour firms registered in Kurgan Region that specialize in hunting tours: SAPSAN Regional Charitable Fund for the Conservation of Hunting Animals (sapsankurgan.ru) and Kurgan Region Union of Civic Hunting and Fishing Organizations.

Find out more on Kurgan Region’s official tourist information site: tourism-kurgan.ru

What’s most impressive about Ergaki is its landscapes – the expressive, inimitable lines of the mountain tops, with their ridges, separate peaks, and rocky outcrops. Add to that the real taiga, with cedars, firs, and spruces, and a plethora of mountain lakes with exceptionally clean water.

In summertime, the area is filled with tourists, and at times it can be difficult to find a spot for your tent. This applies in particular to the areas within a day’s walk of the leisure camps that line the highway. It’s thanks to the highway, in fact, that Ergaki has been able to become a relatively accessible site. It was built not so long ago, and with it came a great influx of visitors. In one day it’s quite possible to reach Svetloye, Karovoye or Raduzhnoye Lakes, to climb to the Hanging Stone, and to get back to your comfortable camp by the highway.

The most beautiful places, however, are not so easy to reach. To get to them, you need to go through some quite challenging passes, some of which require mountaineering equipment. There are less challenging passes, but even these require a certain amount of fitness, stamina, and courage. Plus, you’ll need to carry a tent, sleeping bag, food, and other essentials with you. On the other hand, on the other side of those passes is the real Ergaki. That’s where you find the Lake of Artists, the Lake of Mountain Spirits, the famous Parabola, a double granite peak with a very distinctive shape, and much more. But even in these hard-to-reach areas, in summertime you’ll find the parking lots crowded with tents. Go further still, and there are some places far from the beaten track where it really is possible not to see another human being in a day’s walk.

These hard-to-access areas have become popular thanks to professional photographers, huge numbers of whom have visited here in the last two decades. However, this newfound popularity has a darker side – the anthropogenic impact on the environment has reached critical levels. Th ere are even some confl icts with the animal kingdom. For example, dangerous encounters with bears have been known to occur. Bears are, aft er all, the masters of the Taiga. Th ere are several signs dotted around with instructions for how to behave in the park, including what to do should you run into a bear.

Of course, for real adventure-seekers, that type of risk is unlikely to be much of a deterrent. And just think how many other extraordinary places there are in Russia that nobody yet knows about, but that in time will become as popular as Ergaki.

Getting THERE

How to get there
From Krasnoyarsk or Abakan, it’s easiest to reach the park with your own car, but there are also daily scheduled buses that pass through the park on the Krasnoyarsk-Kyzyl and Abakan-Kyzyl routes, tickets for which can be bought at the bus stations in either city. The territory of the park is split from north to south by the M54 Yenisey Federal Highway. All the leisure camps are located along the highway between the 605km and 640km markers. Most of the tourist walking routes start from the highway, too.

Where to stay
There are several holiday camps within the park, offering tourists accommodation, food, guided tours, and equipment hire. In the summer period there are also commercial campsites at Uyutnoye and  vetloye Lakes.

Visitor Center
The park’s Visitor Center is open year-round, and you are encouraged to drop in to register your visit and receive a short introductory drill. You can also order guided environmental tours, and buy  souvenirs,  guidebooks, and walking maps.